Dear Readers…
No matter how controversial the subject, I am opening up important dialogue as I think this is the only way we are going to move our industry forward… that being said, I received an email from a Fashion Industry Professional who wanted to share her views on the many conversations we have been having in the PLUS Blog this past month… but wanted to remain anonymous… and I can respect that given the fact that they are truly asking some important questions… and ones that I think we need to take a look at… as an industry, and as women who want to thrive within this industry… so have a read and let me know what you think!
So a clothing designer wrote:
Thank you for opening up the lines of communication in this way.
The reason why I’m choosing to be anonymous is not because I do not stand by my words – I just do not want to have hate mail sent to my inbox. I know that my views may not be the most popular. I’m a clothing designer for many years and my sample sizes used to be a size 18 but when I realized that the shows and magazines could not use the clothing I had to make them smaller in order for their models to wear them.
When I want to venture out and use other models or bigger models and I start to look at the modeling forums on the internet there are many models that are size 18 and bigger that do not seem ready. As a prospective client we want to see the model show how comfortable she is in front of the camera without being inappropriate. I receive submissions to my website daily and I can tell you that not many have impressed me at all. Some may be ready but are not the look I’m going for – but some have potential but just have not made the connection between what is required of a professional model. I have to question “are the larger size models ready for a real modeling career if the door would open for them?” I don’t blame them in the least since the doors have not been opened to them freely but in this life if you want to achieve something you have to be prepared.
Thoughts???
Let’s keep the lines of communication open to move our industry forward!
Best…
Maddy
About Editor-in-Chief, Madeline Figueroa-Jones
Madeline hails from a close-knit NYC family and started her plus size modeling career with a spread in BBW magazine. In early 2003 Figueroa was selected to appear as the spokes model for the "Hips, Heels & Curves" Fashion Show, continuing on to casting director for the Dangerous Curves 2003/2004 Tour. After appearing on several television segments including Aqui Y Ahora for Univision she began reaching out to the plus size community by serving as a moderator for VenusDivas.com, Empowerment Editor for AmaZeMagazine.com. Madeline and her husband Luke reside in the Battery Park city area of NY and operate lucaspictures.net.
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Frankly, this person is not being specific enough. What exactly is ‘comfortable without being inappropriate’? Does that mean only giving glamour/boudoir type poses and facial expressions to the photographer? Posed okay, but half-undressed? Sure, I’ve seen plenty of those types of shots from potential models on web forums, but consider why there are so many of them around before being overly-critical…
They are caught in a classic catch-22. Serious photographers wanting to build their books for a career in fashion photography do not want to shoot larger women. Girls who want to model, and who look/are larger than agency models by reason of their height and weight combination will have a really hard time finding anything other than photographers who are on the take, amateur GWC (GuysWithCameras), or size-friendly glamour/arty shooters to get test photos from.
Those sorts of photographers can not teach girls how to impress a client with camera-readiness. Judging by the hundreds of examples I’ve seen over the years, they either let the girls go wild and not tell them that their poses are unflattering or inappropriate and just keep clicking away, or they pose them right down to the fingertips and tell them not to move making the model look wooden and unnatural. They don’t let them smile enough. They will want to show more leg and bust, not less. They will concentrate on the face and not on the body, and definitely not on the hands. They will want to try out their kooky lighting ideas, or shoot it all in B/W, or they won’t insist on skilled hair and makeup people, and their photography skills will be poor and therefore the photos will suffer from ridiculous photoshopping. Many of these amateurs think that larger women just want to have sexy photos for their partners so they can feel good about themselves, and as that’s what they are interested in shooting it’s the reason why they are so available to larger women. And because the women have nowhere else to go, these dudes get their business.
Clients want beautiful girls who look like they can sell anything to anyone. The best measure of a model is how effectively they can push a basic item like a t-shirt. If the t-shirt is cheap-looking but the client wants to put a $50 tag on it, the key is not to make the garment or the model look cheap. To get those bookings, you can’t have photos in your book that make you look anything less than polished, expensive-looking and classy, even if you are wearing a 5 year old dress you got at Ross. Good photographers know how to achieve this result, and you won’t find them emailing you about shoots on your musecube/onemodelplace/etc page because they are too busy shooting the girls who have gone searching for *them* to work with.
I think “Anonymous” is waiting for someone else to fix the problem when the solution is staring them in the face. If clients are wanting to use 18+ models and lament that they ‘aren’t prepared’, then the only way to overcome this is by taking it upon themselves to demand larger models from agencies and be prepared to pay full agency rates. Or they should scout girls with potential and get them on set and train them themselves. They should also hire photographers patient enough to tell the models how to work with lighting and how to present their face and body to the lens. The photographers will already be experienced in shooting for plus clients and know what they are doing, because this experience is translated by the new model as confidence and trust in them – whereupon they will generally rise to the occasion and deliver good (if beginner) photos.
Every job needs some training to perform it well; modeling is no exception.
Oh – and if anyone wants a sampling of what I consider expensive, classy and polished, click on my name in the above post. There’s hundreds of photos to choose from.
Thank you for your feedback and I do want to point out a few things.
As a former model I have to say that the amount of photographers that are willing to shoot plus size models now is so much more than it used to be. I’m so grateful for photographers like Inez Lewis, Kev Bailey, Les Delano, Fadil and my very own favorite Luke Jones
I think that aspiring models need to be pro active and look for those photographers that shoot plus and do it well and also take the responsibility of knowing the industry that they are trying to get into. I know that it seems like the models have it easy all the time but they work hard at knowing their craft and developing themselves as models who can sell even the simplest t-shirt.
I was Luke’s FIRST plus size model and look at where it led him as far as photography. He has shot models from size 0 to 26.
I don’t think its fair to ask the industry or photographers to train the models – If I wanted to fly airplanes would I ask the airlines to train me? I would have to go to school to learn and obtain the proper training and this is what I believe models need to do.
The best way for a model of any size to represent herself is to do the research and find the photographer that will work with her and make her look and feel fabulous so she can enter the industry with amazing images.
Our industry still has a way to go but it has changed for the better and the opportunities are being made available but everyone has to take responsibility for their part.
Maddy
IF you got it Flaunt it WELL!!! EnJoy Life!!
Darrliena McDonald
What caught my eye about this blog was the question that was posed: Are Larger Models Ready to Model? My opinion is that without the opportunity to do it, then the experience will not be there. We learn not just by research but also by doing. Just like in any career or trade, we could go to school for it all in prepartion or to equip us with the skills necessary but it is not until you are actually in the position where one would be ready to do the job…and it does come with experience but training and research does help. The anonymous writer’s opinion is just that, an opinion…the model just doesn’t have to be on the larger side but just on the unexperienced side, the same could apply to any size model for instance Are shorter models ready to model? Are Brown Eyed Models ready to model? and so on… Thank God there are places like plusmodels.com Plus Model Mag & Venus Diva Plus e Mag that provide tips for aspiring models and the opportunity to talk to professional models already doing it and sharing the ups and downs of it all.
Before I began modeling, I researched many sites and literally took all the advice that was provided, what to bring to a shoot, practice posing in the mirror, learn how to walk the catwalk on you tube…basically whatever I could learn I tried to learn and I am still learning and trying to learn more but this alone does not prepare me as a size 18 “larger model” to deliver the look you want, this comes with opportunity and experience. Thank you for sharing your opinion with us and posing this question with Plus Model Mag but for me I am ready to model….I may not be as experienced as the rest and this is definitely not something that I want to pursue full time, but I am ready …it is in my blood and whether I drop down to a size 12 it still won’t matter because it all comes down to opportunity and experience. The more experience I get, the more comfort I get and the more growth you will see in my photos.
Regrettably, I know what she’s referring to.
I have watched quite a few fashion shows online that feature plus-size models, and I lamented over how awkwardly SOME of these women walked the runway… turned as though they weren’t sure it was going to work…jerky movements… and had no idea what to do with their hands. I winced on several occasions. I felt terribly for them.. and for the audience.
If we want the world to see us as beautiful women, we have to invest the same (if not more) time — and money if need be — learning how to use our bodies. It’s not enough to walk on heels. We need to know how to float gracefully (not thunder) down a runway, with our toes forward, not duck-footed, and without wobbling. There is a BIG difference, and the same woman is capable of either. It is a matter of skill and practice — which you can do in a park, for heaven’s sake!!
I know that many disapprove of modeling schools, because they feel they’re being scammed. However, I learned over 15 years ago how to walk a runway at one of these schools, and it has made a huge difference in how I present myself.. as well as how others perceive me. I haven’t modeled in many years, but it is BURNED on my brain how to balance, find your rhythm, not be too exaggerated, plan ahead, etc. etc. etc… and some of the ladies I saw clearly had not learned how to do that. This is a skill that MUST be developed somewhat BEFORE you show up for the shoot or show!!
We’re asking for equal representation…It is CRITICAL we provide them with professional, capable, graceful women of size..Step up to the plate! Get some coaching. Have a friend videotape you, and analyze what you need to improve. It will pay off!!
every since i entered the plus modeling world i’ve been emailed by other women and girls interested in plus modeling. they ask me for advice and i tell them to do exactly what i did – research. being pretty isn’t enough, being plus isn’t enough. look at the ones who’ve made it and figure out what they did – or ask. so it actually bothers me when some of the ones who contacted me start posting ‘modeling’ pictures that are nowhere near the quality of what i’ve done. i have by no means made it where i’ve want to be but i have a resume and i did it by research and connecting with folks in the industry that know what they are doing. i love my sexy side, but this industry is more conservative. so as i did my research i learned what is and what isnt appropriate. you can see the growth in my port. eye candy has it’s place. in ‘regular’ modeling maxim is different than french vogue, so why do plus models think its not the same in the plus industry. not only doing research on the industry but finding out what works for you. what poses are flattering to your figure, what patterns or colors work best. sometimes i feel like so many want the opportunity given with out earning it. i take modeling seriously but unfortunately i don’t feel like all my plus sisters do.
limarie is another model that works hard and does the research and i hope she gets the opportunities she deserves.
i forgot to mention – and i speak from experience- there are a lot photographers out there convincing plus women that only doing eye candy/very revealing shoots is all they can do because they dont fit the industry standards either in height and/or weight. don’t fall for these traps. if you want to see yourself in ashley stewarts then you have to be ashley stewarts caliber. don’t sell yourself short just because someone wants to exploit you.
Simple solution to what she said. The only way to get better is to get jobs. If you never get jobs you never get ready. You cant say their not ready and then wonder why their not ready…its because people like you are not giving them the opportunity to get ready.